pipe h2o - pancho, charissa moore, and a few others, not sure...

determined to get my ass swimmin in solid surf...

well, i did swim sunset with a lot of swell, took the camera with the 135 on it and managed to get a ton of great shots of clouds!
so bummed i guess i was a bit too cautious of sets landing on my head (big wide scary west peaks...)
the only shots at all were the first few test shots i took on the inside, it probably does give a good perspective of size considering the background wave was a small insider with no one on it....

and the swim in - wow - took about 1/2 hour, swimming against the current - finally swam over to kammies and got washed in....

although not exactly what i was looking for, i certainly got some water time in really solid stuff.....

the cloud is one of the better shots i have out of about 300 or so cloud shots....
i think the blurry water shot is when i was swimming back in, mistakenly taken.. but i sort of like it...
and the last one, well, it certainly was not something ive seen in all my years at any of the beaches around this globe....

whimpy waimea - not the surfers, but me for not swimming my ass out there!

jason chaffetz - buggering theif!, well if you know me, enough said...

current place is much more hospitable!

notice the 32" monitor!!!

2 quads, 3 tri-s with one more on the way...
really only ride 3 of them though...

huge swell due tomorrow...

by the evening tomorrow it will be ridiculously large, i will shoot, not sure where.... it will be good out front or on this side too - so maybe ill surf instead of shooting.... the swell is going to be big, real big through the wkend.....

ordered a 7-4 tokoro gun, cant wait to get that beast!!!

attempted to shoot yesterday - put the camera in the housing, got ready and headed over - checked pipe first, was about 8ft hawaiian - which would have been ok, but the period of the swell was short, so tons of whitewater on the inside... plus not many good waves being ridden, and the good ones were on the inside, where i would not get any pix...
rockpiles looked insane, but way too heavy on the inside to swim out there and shoot (it is wild, most of the time rockpiles doesnt even look like a wave - nothing showing at all - yesterday was by far the biggest/best spot on the coast)...

today - surfed out front.... there were 3 dudes out when i started the paddle, 20 minutes later when i was just about out, they all headed in.... so surfed solo for about an hour, swearing i saw about 10 sharks... course i did not see any, but it is freaky out there alone....

have board and bike, will travel... usually about 30mins to the north shore (surfed small pipe yesterday in strong trades)

gas chambers and rocky rights.. just a few (and a back light shot of buttons)