by the evening tomorrow it will be ridiculously large, i will shoot, not sure where.... it will be good out front or on this side too - so maybe ill surf instead of shooting.... the swell is going to be big, real big through the wkend.....
ordered a 7-4 tokoro gun, cant wait to get that beast!!!
attempted to shoot yesterday - put the camera in the housing, got ready and headed over - checked pipe first, was about 8ft hawaiian - which would have been ok, but the period of the swell was short, so tons of whitewater on the inside... plus not many good waves being ridden, and the good ones were on the inside, where i would not get any pix...
rockpiles looked insane, but way too heavy on the inside to swim out there and shoot (it is wild, most of the time rockpiles doesnt even look like a wave - nothing showing at all - yesterday was by far the biggest/best spot on the coast)...
today - surfed out front.... there were 3 dudes out when i started the paddle, 20 minutes later when i was just about out, they all headed in.... so surfed solo for about an hour, swearing i saw about 10 sharks... course i did not see any, but it is freaky out there alone....
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>7-4 tokoro gun... explain please.
>Just started reading Jitterbug Perfume by Tom Robbins, the same author you're reading. I read your blog and figured I'd read one of his earlier ones first. Did you read this one?
>In my mind, I'm drawing a large circle with a picture of sharks under a giant red X.
7ft 4in "gun" surfboard... wade tokoro is the shaper - from what ive seen, seems like he is one of the better shapers around here these days...
i did read jitterbug perfume a long time ago, dont really remember the specifics...
heading over to the n shore soon to go shoot a few pix....
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