havenʻt surfed in a while...

so was going a bit crazy...
plenty of swell, often too big... but chilly and windy, which means the bike ride is freezing!
today, had enough, rigged up the bike and rode over to the north shore - check a few spots, sunset looked the best, but a touch crowded, and well, like sunset, all over the place...
paddled out at jockoʻs - was solid - 6ft (hawaiian) with bigger sets, and more current than i have ever dealt with in my life... so the current constantly pushed everyone deep (there was only 4 people out including me), so current making positioning impossible, on top of wash through 8ft sets... well lead to an interesting experience, ending with a set on the head, and me paddling for everything i had to the channel hoping not to get smashed into the rocks....
made it out fine, no injuries to me or the board...
tomorrow should be bigger - not sure where, but am gonna get in the water somewhere...

then stoked to meet up with the family for a bit of snowboarding!

new board, part II....

well, not new either, but new for me!
it certainly helps to know that it was used by a former pipe master (jamie oʻbrien)

way better edit (thanks erik!)..

swam pipe for a few hrs today - tiring!

broken board blues

one wave, that is it, one stinking wave!
not even that big, solid for sure, but not that big...
first board i broke in years... must have been bad foam or glass...
surfed rockies, about 5ft or so sets (4 or 5ft overhead on set)...

told the shaper via email, will see what happens...

new board stoke (and wonder if a tail patch is needed)... 7-4, 6-4, 6-2, 5-6

new board done! picking up tomorrow!

here is the shaper - if this board gets me even close to this ill be stoked! (pic 12)

http://www.surfline.com/surfnews/photo_bamp_900_v03.cfm?id=22172&ad=1

was gonna shoot in the h2o at the pipe trials, but chose not to - this seq. shows why... or yellow spit into soup..

shot from the beach with the 135 - kinda lineup shots...

bubble focus.. pipe unfocused... i sort of like...

trees... think i need to shoot this at a different time of day...