so was going a bit crazy...
plenty of swell, often too big... but chilly and windy, which means the bike ride is freezing!
today, had enough, rigged up the bike and rode over to the north shore - check a few spots, sunset looked the best, but a touch crowded, and well, like sunset, all over the place...
paddled out at jockoʻs - was solid - 6ft (hawaiian) with bigger sets, and more current than i have ever dealt with in my life... so the current constantly pushed everyone deep (there was only 4 people out including me), so current making positioning impossible, on top of wash through 8ft sets... well lead to an interesting experience, ending with a set on the head, and me paddling for everything i had to the channel hoping not to get smashed into the rocks....
made it out fine, no injuries to me or the board...
tomorrow should be bigger - not sure where, but am gonna get in the water somewhere...
then stoked to meet up with the family for a bit of snowboarding!
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment