was fun, a few ft overhead at the peak, racetracks a bit smaller, but better...
too many brazzillas, but got plenty, but was forced to do the aggro thing to get waves, which always sort of spoils it a bit... board felt good...
i thought this was interesting:
http://worldprosurfers.com/travelling-light-dane-reynolds.htm
this dude was surfing a spot i was a few months ago in west java, ive actually never seen anyone surf anything like it before, completely amazing, and he rode a fishquit one day (i have one with me that i tend to ride a bit too often! - did not ride today though, probably tomorrow with the dropping swell)..
thinking maybe going with the 6-8 on sunday when the swell picks up (probably will be double overhead + at some spots - hopefully the conditions will be good as well...).
oh yeah, i forgot, i think that pro snowboarder dude shawn white was surfing at ulu yesterday, the dude with all the red hair, he sort of stands out a bit...
surfed a junky beach break this morning...
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