one wave, that is it, one stinking wave!
not even that big, solid for sure, but not that big...
first board i broke in years... must have been bad foam or glass...
surfed rockies, about 5ft or so sets (4 or 5ft overhead on set)...
told the shaper via email, will see what happens...
4 comments:
Thanks for bringing some levity into my morning. While tragic as it might be, it is fucking funny. I think it is certainly karmically driven (all of those boards, surfing in warm water, riding motor-scooters with big engines, capturing souls with you image capturing device) you were just swinging the pendulum way too far.
I think next move is the fish at pipeline. It's not about the board, it's about the man paddling the board over one of the scariest ledges on the planet. Please make the drop... for all of us who are too scared and/or live in places where it is snowing right now.
-Erik
i must admit, i do find it funny as well, perhaps funny is not the word, but it is close....
think ill pass on the fish at pipe - that board has no rocker - every time i rode that board in steep waves, had quite a few problems! i did surf it one day, thinking it was about head high out front, but turned out to be about 4ft overhead or so on set - was quite a challenge, but total fun... course out front is not quite pipe (does get hollow, but not inverted hollow!)
think ill steal some souls this afternoon in the water at pipe - looks good there today, hope the wind stays good.....
unreal about the board - sux...but now you are like all of those other guys you have photos of breaking their boards at pipe! where where you surfing when it happened?
was out at rockies - kind of at the deep part of the left.. it was a lot bigger than when we surfed it, maybe more like 6ft, with maybe even bigger sets...
took off on one, popped off the top, only to see i was still deep on the reef with a big set stacking on the outside... took the first wave right on my head - ripped the board out of my hands... got up, got the board, second one right on the head again - this time did not get the board ripped out of hands, but when i came up it was only a 4-6 instead of a 7-4!
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