in horrible surf... well, for here the surf was probably horrible - chest high or so, kinda closed out beachbreak... but had tons of fun, rode the 5-6, and got the feel of it more than i had during any other sessions ive had on it.... was wild though, not a single person out when i paddled out, and by the time i left - about 15 pricks on my peak!
most of them were horrible so it did not matter - one guy could surf - sharing a peak with one guy is not bad at all... strange from the beach, and when walking/paddling out, i thought it was gonna all be rights, but ended up way more lefts...
tomorrow morning should be about the same, before the swell shows up in the afternoon, and by sunday/monday is looking to be big - guess im gonna have to finally wax up the 6-8, hopefully it will work (ive yet to have a good session on it...)
gonna try to surf early tomorrow, then get on the bike and shoot while cruising around the island - really only have been in this small area (trying to get used to it - finally dont get lost every time i get on the bike...)
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
No comments:
Post a Comment