lets see, my feet have touched the ground, but more often than not, i am cruising on my steady steed of a motorbike, or floating ontop of water on fiberglass.... have not been able to find the dude daniel just yet, and am thinking of maybe going to the other side of the island, it is a bit less hectic or it seemed so when i went there last... i did check out that wave yesterday, there was too much swell for it - some people were surfing it, but maybe 1 make-able out of 20 or so... so just watched it for a while, and tried to figure out how it changes / when it will be good... oh yeah, of course i found out the place is swamped these days - both with all sorts of surfers in this time of year, and full of japanese surfers starting november... it does look like a fun wave, not super long, but seems to standup and barrel...
surfed canggu today, was alright, but a bit packed with whities and nonwhites all acting like brazzillas at the peak... got a few fun ones, and actually was surfing fairly well, but not at all in the mood to deal with the fools, so just waited in one spot for sets, which did come from time to time (one super annoying person was right in my way on a set, trying to steal the wave, ridiculous completely, so i just backed-off - they got pitched completely over the falls and over again, which is of course exactly what should have happened! - i was in the perfect spot, would have run the over, so obviously they were way too late..)
actually i dont think one brazilian was in the water there - perhaps that desease of assholism is spreading, or has already overrun these waters...
spent a lot of time the last few days working, and the stupid work email is not working for me (they expired my email, and have yet to reset it) - making my life difficult from here for work purposes...
have to give a presentation tonight at 11 - always great fun, even more so being here! hopefully i can take a nap for a few hours, perhaps ill investigate that possibility now...
--your loyal errand boy arturo.
Monday, September 22, 2008
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2 comments:
i understand the rights on the other side are best caught super early in the am before the wind hits.
you need to get on the in the dark i think.
the winds seemed to have switched at least in the short term to wet season winds (onshore here by mid morning) - the other side, at least that wave is very tide dependent from what i heard, so need to get there with enough water... which now is ether real early or in the afternoon..
may give it a go in the morning if i wake early enough tomorrow...
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